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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.